 
spec of the box
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Take the
measurements of the bottom stone (could be the headstone, basestone1, basestone 2, or ???)
that will be pinned to the concrete footing. Using the
measurements, add 4" to each side. We'll use the example of a basestone being
20"x20". We add 4" to each side for a total of
28"x28". This is the measurement of the wooden box (form) we'll make at
home and take to the cemetery.
The form is four sides with a 4" chamfered edge all around the
top (see photo at left--click on image for a larger photo). The
chamfered edge is
made on a table saw.
The height of the box is determined by the frost line in your
area. Here in Seattle, our weather is pretty mild and the frost line is fairly
shallow. The carpenters and the engineers we worked with felt that with the weight
of the stones being placed on the concrete footings, they would only need to be 18"
high. The largest stones required a 24" footing more for stability than
anything.
The holes were dug keeping in mind an inch or two of the footing
should be revealed. This would aid in water run-off and ensure the stone was kept
above any water (we gets lots of rain, don't ya know). |
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At the cemetery,
dig a hole large enough to accommodate the form. Set the form into the hole. The
very best results would be to dig a hole exactly the size of the form. (Try telling
that to 10 men in a hurry.) We had to use rebar (the cheap stuff, not the stainless
steel threaded rod for pinning) around the edges of the boxes so they would not "blow
out" during the pour. |
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Some of the holes
were dug too deep or the boxes so big, we used rocks to fill some of the interior.
You'll want to make sure the concrete is not running out underneath, so may have to pack
some dirt around the inside edges. |
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Next came the
pour. We did so many footings in one day that we brought in two concrete trucks and
a pumper truck. The trucks were on the hill outside the cemetery property (wheels
are NOT allowed in the cemetery) so we had to pump the concrete to the individual
stones. We ended up having to wheelbarrow many loads of concrete to stones beyond
the reach of the pumper truck. |
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After the
concrete had a few hours to set up, the masons began pulling apart the forms and smoothing
the concrete on top and any other places that needed it. The concrete needed to cure for about a week before any drilling could be
done.
While the concrete cured, the carpenters went back to the shop and
cut all the lengths of stainless steel threaded rod to meet my specs for each stone.
The rods were fairly consistent. We had 2" going down into the footing,
1/4" for the small spacer to be placed between the stone and the concrete (don't let
them touch!), then there was 2" for going up into the stone. The length of most
of the rods was 4 1/4". Variations occurred when a stone was very thin, or very
tall. A longer rod was used for the very tall stones, and a shorter rod was used for
very thin stones. |
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When the concrete
was cured, two masons came back to drill holes. A wooden template was made (did not
get a photo, sorry). The template was about 15"x15" and had holes drilled
at regular intervals like a checkerboard. Around the edges were stops which were
placed at the edge of the footing, then turned over for the stone--this ensured the holes
were exact on both. The masons used a square with one
person holding it and watching the other person drill. The watcher ensured the drill
stayed straight. Once the hole was started, the watcher moved out of the way.
I must say, almost all the holes were perfect.
After the holes were drilled, an air compressor was used to blow out
all the dust. |
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A test fit was
made of all the stainless steel threaded rod. When
drilling and test fitting were complete, that portion of the stone to be pinned to another
was thoroughly cleaned using approved conservator methods. |
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A fresh new day
and we started setting the stones. If a stone was still mortared together, we lifted
the entire thing, securing the stone just in case it decided to fall apart during the
move. If the stones were loose, we separated them and pinned each piece to its
partner, stacking the stones bottom to top. The stone at left was still securely
fastened after 100 years. Because the headstone was still securely fastened to
basestone 1, and the basestones were still securely fastened together, we only had to pin
the basestone to the concrete footing. |
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The pins were
epoxied into the basestone, then a very thick amount placed on top of the pin and the
stone lowered on. (Don't forget that spacer when connecting two different types of
stone or stone and concrete). We also dabbed a bit of epoxy in a few places between
the stone and concrete to ensure it was adhered. |
| Photo will be
available soon |
When the epoxy
had cured, we thoroughly cleaned the headstones and sprayed water between the stones where
there were spaces. This was to remove any new dirt attaching itself to a stone
during the pinning process. Remember! No household chemicals, only approved
conservator methods. |
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Here's one of the
completed memorials. |
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Here's one stone
we could place back in it's original spot. I am not looking forward to cleaning it! |
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Nor this one! These two tree trunk stones are very similar, but one is a WOW, and the other
is not. |
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Here's one of the
stones we could replace in its original spot. |
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And, here's
another memorial of stones we could not replace. I should note that the stone on the
left was near it's correct location, but a group of descendants gathered with me at the
cemetery to discuss its placement and they wanted it moved away from the main road and
into a memorial. They were afraid it might be vandalized. We accommodated
their request. |
